Can I just suggest that you edit the instructions so they read “Keep turning, just before the point that the Stepper-Motor clicks over AGAIN is the correct amount of tension for the Lead-Screw.” Not knowing exactly what noise the stepper motor should make when it clicks over, I thought I had just knocked something and carried on a couple more times. Hoping I got away with it.
1) When jogging the x and y axis’ into the middle position, try ensuring that the screw on the clamping collars are both visible and accessible.
2) I could not get any of the flanged radial bearings out from where they were socketed using a thin edge and trying to wiggle them out. I then decided to use some relatively strong magnets I have. Using those and some very gentle manipulation of the screw they popped out.
I think you have a good point there Chris. Especially when you are working with limited space you end up having to turn the machine round constantly so can lose a little orientation. I also thought a good idea would be to have a large sheet of paper on which the outlines of the machine is printed. That would help with layout and orientation and possible even assist in getting the base frame as close to square as you can. Now that was something I really struggled with
Really had some problems with too. Final solution seemed to be brute force and ignorance. I think its something I’ll definitely have to keep an eye on to make sure the Mafell stays secure.
100% agree that it is so much easier to slide the t-nuts into extrusion A first and then attach the brackets to them. Otherwise they spin round all the time at the end of the bracket and its a bit of a nightmare to get them to slide in.
I’ve managed to dig out an old pair and as far as I can tell the thickness is 8mm, and this seems consistent along the entire length. However I have also noticed that there appears to be a very small bend to the screw, which is visible when I roll it along a flat surface, or a slight flex can be seen when turning it whilst going through the nut blocks. I think a bend in the screw is more likely. Again, I’m just a little concerned this would eventually cause damage to the nut blocks as the carriage travels along it.
I slid a flanged radial bearing ono lead screw-X and it though it would slide along the majority of the screw, it reached a certain point and then jammed. This suggested to me that the screw may be slightly thicker in that area, minutely damaged or bent. I used the same bearing on screw I haven’t used yet and it slid along with no issue.
I spun the screw manually and the X-gantry seemed to travel along the screw with no real problem . I can get the radial bearings on in both ends in a slightly different manner but worried any bend/damage on the screw might damage/misshape the nut block. Shall I carry on or ask for a new screw?
Can I just suggest that you edit the instructions so they read “Keep turning, just before the point that the Stepper-Motor clicks over AGAIN is the correct amount of tension for the Lead-Screw.” Not knowing exactly what noise the stepper motor should make when it clicks over, I thought I had just knocked something and carried on a couple more times. Hoping I got away with it.
Two things.
1) When jogging the x and y axis’ into the middle position, try ensuring that the screw on the clamping collars are both visible and accessible.
2) I could not get any of the flanged radial bearings out from where they were socketed using a thin edge and trying to wiggle them out. I then decided to use some relatively strong magnets I have. Using those and some very gentle manipulation of the screw they popped out.
Wouldn’t this also be the time to add the side panel material as well?
The bolts go through the holes that are closer to the centre of the bracket
Little stingy with the grub screws. I’m a couple short. Sure I’ll manage but a few extra in the bag would have been handy
I think you have a good point there Chris. Especially when you are working with limited space you end up having to turn the machine round constantly so can lose a little orientation. I also thought a good idea would be to have a large sheet of paper on which the outlines of the machine is printed. That would help with layout and orientation and possible even assist in getting the base frame as close to square as you can. Now that was something I really struggled with
Really had some problems with too. Final solution seemed to be brute force and ignorance. I think its something I’ll definitely have to keep an eye on to make sure the Mafell stays secure.
Maybe a shorter bolt guys?
100% agree that it is so much easier to slide the t-nuts into extrusion A first and then attach the brackets to them. Otherwise they spin round all the time at the end of the bracket and its a bit of a nightmare to get them to slide in.
I’ve managed to dig out an old pair and as far as I can tell the thickness is 8mm, and this seems consistent along the entire length. However I have also noticed that there appears to be a very small bend to the screw, which is visible when I roll it along a flat surface, or a slight flex can be seen when turning it whilst going through the nut blocks. I think a bend in the screw is more likely. Again, I’m just a little concerned this would eventually cause damage to the nut blocks as the carriage travels along it.
I slid a flanged radial bearing ono lead screw-X and it though it would slide along the majority of the screw, it reached a certain point and then jammed. This suggested to me that the screw may be slightly thicker in that area, minutely damaged or bent. I used the same bearing on screw I haven’t used yet and it slid along with no issue.
I spun the screw manually and the X-gantry seemed to travel along the screw with no real problem . I can get the radial bearings on in both ends in a slightly different manner but worried any bend/damage on the screw might damage/misshape the nut block. Shall I carry on or ask for a new screw?
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