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Not cutting square/flat bottom

Hi Guys,

I’m new to the world of cnc and have got a slight issue with my newly built workbee. I noticed when flatterning the bed that it wasn’t cutting true, eg, if I put it in a raster pattern (the start at centre and do a sqaure snail shell outward), where the cnc changed direction there would be a small ridge, so you would have 4 ridges that would go from the centre to the corners of the waste board. The worst one being bottom left if looking from above. If I tried a back and forth in the X direction, there is a very slight wedge left, thickest towards the front of the machine. If I lower the machine down to a spirit level and nudge close it I can see ever such a difference in distance in a 25mm diamter cutter from one side to the other (maybe less that 0.5mm).

I’ve just tried to cut a circle 70mm, 0.5 mm per pass, in some offcut oak, and this is the result. Spiral up cut bit from the ooznest kit, makita router, the center feels slightly domed up.

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I’m not really sure where to start looking, I’ve tried the X/Y/Z wheels on the beams to check they are gripping etc. Any other photos or info I’m happy to provide.

Cheers,

Andy

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Hey Robert,

Thanks for the help, I rechecked everything, my Z axis had a very small amount of play in it, which came out with the eccentric washers (which I do find a little hard to tweak for consistent resistance on the wheels), and my nod was solved with 3 bits of tin foil.

Cheers,

Andy

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Thanks for letting us know how you sorted it Andrew!

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Hi Andy,

Thanks for your question. This is a trimming issue.

The best way to tram a router is to buy a tramming tool like this: https://www.machine-dro.co.uk/edge-techn...

This will measure how much out of tram the router is. You can make your own version with an indicator dial on a rod.

To Tram the X, this can be simply done by moving the router mount up or down on the left or right side. If you use the Height Reference tool, this should get it perfect: Assembling Your Original WorkBee Router Mount

To Tram the Y, also known as the nod, is more difficult. Minute adjustment is needed. Therefore adding something as thin a tin foil underneath the top/bottom of the Z-Bracket to get the correct adjustment would work.

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Author avatar Andrew C will be eternally grateful.
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