Hi @robertooznest It was my message but thanks for that! Makes a lot more sense then.
@rmark1 Then we are all good in the hood, but don’t just copy paste over the whole code, go though what references your size to make sure you don’t accidentally make it a 1500x1500 like mine ;)
With DM I meant a Direct Message - Click on my user name and my profile pops up then we can carry on writing without adding to this thread and share info :) At least that looks like a possibility, have not tried it yet.
So here’s what I see when looking at the GUI - Seems to me that I’ve updated to the latest, but I must say that I’ve always been confused by the versions. Looking at below I’m updated to the latest, files are updated end December. So perhaps I missed a step or my common sense ( @robertooznest should the firmware not have been updated with the below info?) I get that RRF 3 is different, at least this is the Duet pages states but these pages just don’t make much sense to me without studying it in depth.
General = WorkBee Control 3.3.0 - V1.2
Last software reset at 2021-12-26 11:16, reason: User, GCodes spinning, available RAM 13296, slot 2
I also have an original 2018 model. I’ve upgraded it to lead screws however so please pay attention to this. Suggest that you write a DM when you get started, I’m keen to see where you end up, and if I can help I will.
Hi @rmark1, Yep that’s the code that is running on my machine.
It’s been a while since I’ve looked at it, but it does work just fine. Also sure I had the Firmware updated back in dec... I can have a look when I’m home to double check - Would be interested to learn from you what you find regarding this as well!
All good, hope it’s useful to others as well. And thanks for the help! Still haven’t figured out how to enable pins for the old SW emergency stop, but perhaps I should connect it to the power supply anyway, just need time to do so.
@robertooznest Success, works like a charm as long as you also set the U axis parameters in a few other files and temperately performs a M669 so the U axis has the same speed as Y.
I can’t add all the code in here so I mailed it to your sales mail and hope you will get it somehow. The home changes are (not the full code);
Homeall.g
M584 P4 ; set 4 axis CNC
M669 K0 X1:0:0:0 Y0:1:0:0 U0:0:0:1 Z0:0:1:0 ; enable speed for U axis
G1 X-3 Y-5 U-5 F2400 ; go back a few mm in X Y and U
G1 Z-3 F900 ; go back a few mm in Z
G1 H1 Y{move.axes[1].max*2} U{move.axes[3].max*2}F300 ; move slowly both Y and U axis enstops and stop there (second pass)
G1 U-0.1 F150 ; fully align gantry IMPORTANT move only in negative direction (select Y or U and change accordingly)
G92 Y{move.axes[1].max} U{move.axes[3].max} ; set Y and U home Position
M584 P3 ; set 3 axis CNC
M669 K0 X1:0:0:0 Y0:1:0:1 Z0:0:1:0 ; enable Y speed for U axis
@robertooznest Nearly ready to go should be able to do my first runs tomorrow. But; I’ve run into a issue now with setting up the U endstop - as I have the SW E-stop and the XYZ probe installed. So all the “endstop” connections where used up, To mitigate that I’ve mapped the U stop in place of the E-stop (on “E1 Stop) but that’s not a good option for me since the E-stop is gold worth for me :)
The issue is that I’ve been completely unsuccessful in mapping other pins as the U endstop or when I’ve tried remapping the E-stop. I’ve just tried to map the E-Stop to E6 Step pin, but that failed and now my Workbee is in a emergency stop loop that can’t get out of - Will reset the board tomorrow and start over.
Do you have a suggestion to re-map the SW E-stop somewhere else? Of course the issue is me, I thought I got the new logic of setting up pins but apparently I do not :)
@robertooznest Brilliant. Many thanks! I’ve just designed a sensor holder that can go on top of the Y Cbeams and trigger on the 6mm plates on the ends of the X axis, I’ll give it a go when possible, most likely between Christmas and new years, then let you know!
I’m super keen on this, sometime I really need the precision and don’t see why I can’t achieve this with a properly fixed in place=sturdy base for the WorkBee. Any word of advice or suggestions before I try it out? And should I take this discussion somewhere else?
Thanks! Your quick reply and that you picked it up to Dev. is the reason why I got a WorkBee back in 2018 and why I’m sticking with it still to this day. Keep the updates coming :) I’ll happily be a guinea pig for further development, sign me up!
Guess something like that yes. For setup I suspect that a “standard home” triggered by the main Y sensor first, followed by the second home on the secondary sensor with both motors active. It’s different for the models, for my 1500x1500, each Y axis can move a lot separately without major issue, but expect that the smaller models do not being more rigid, so while you might need separate homing, I expect that it would be beneficial to have both Y motors running for each/every home cycle.
Then comes the potential issues with using the sensors as I know from the original kit (the box standard mechanical ones), they do not have enough tolerance to accommodate bigger movements without having to be super spot one from the get go, so perhaps a proximity sensor, inductive, would be better?
Well just a thought, sorry for adding it all in here - Don’t seem to be a forum for this. If I’m wrong correct me.
Hi @robertooznest It was my message but thanks for that! Makes a lot more sense then.
@rmark1 Then we are all good in the hood, but don’t just copy paste over the whole code, go though what references your size to make sure you don’t accidentally make it a 1500x1500 like mine ;)
With DM I meant a Direct Message - Click on my user name and my profile pops up then we can carry on writing without adding to this thread and share info :) At least that looks like a possibility, have not tried it yet.
So here’s what I see when looking at the GUI - Seems to me that I’ve updated to the latest, but I must say that I’ve always been confused by the versions. Looking at below I’m updated to the latest, files are updated end December. So perhaps I missed a step or my common sense ( @robertooznest should the firmware not have been updated with the below info?) I get that RRF 3 is different, at least this is the Duet pages states but these pages just don’t make much sense to me without studying it in depth.
General = WorkBee Control 3.3.0 - V1.2
Last software reset at 2021-12-26 11:16, reason: User, GCodes spinning, available RAM 13296, slot 2
Board: Duet 2 WiFi (2WiFi)
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2
WiFi/Ethernet 3.3 (2021-06-15)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.26System
Settings Version: 1.2
@rmark1
I also have an original 2018 model. I’ve upgraded it to lead screws however so please pay attention to this. Suggest that you write a DM when you get started, I’m keen to see where you end up, and if I can help I will.
Hi @rmark1, Yep that’s the code that is running on my machine.
It’s been a while since I’ve looked at it, but it does work just fine. Also sure I had the Firmware updated back in dec... I can have a look when I’m home to double check - Would be interested to learn from you what you find regarding this as well!
Cheers,
Kenneth
Hi Robert,
All good, hope it’s useful to others as well. And thanks for the help! Still haven’t figured out how to enable pins for the old SW emergency stop, but perhaps I should connect it to the power supply anyway, just need time to do so.
@robertooznest Success, works like a charm as long as you also set the U axis parameters in a few other files and temperately performs a M669 so the U axis has the same speed as Y.
I can’t add all the code in here so I mailed it to your sales mail and hope you will get it somehow. The home changes are (not the full code);
Homeall.g
And importantly these also have to be changed;
config-axes-calibration.g
config-axes-endstops.g
config-axes-limits.g
@robertooznest Nearly ready to go should be able to do my first runs tomorrow. But; I’ve run into a issue now with setting up the U endstop - as I have the SW E-stop and the XYZ probe installed. So all the “endstop” connections where used up, To mitigate that I’ve mapped the U stop in place of the E-stop (on “E1 Stop) but that’s not a good option for me since the E-stop is gold worth for me :)
The issue is that I’ve been completely unsuccessful in mapping other pins as the U endstop or when I’ve tried remapping the E-stop. I’ve just tried to map the E-Stop to E6 Step pin, but that failed and now my Workbee is in a emergency stop loop that can’t get out of - Will reset the board tomorrow and start over.
Do you have a suggestion to re-map the SW E-stop somewhere else? Of course the issue is me, I thought I got the new logic of setting up pins but apparently I do not :)
@robertooznest Brilliant. Many thanks! I’ve just designed a sensor holder that can go on top of the Y Cbeams and trigger on the 6mm plates on the ends of the X axis, I’ll give it a go when possible, most likely between Christmas and new years, then let you know!
And just FYI: Looks like I’m late to the party, someone implemented it in 2018: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/4669/oozn...
I’m super keen on this, sometime I really need the precision and don’t see why I can’t achieve this with a properly fixed in place=sturdy base for the WorkBee. Any word of advice or suggestions before I try it out? And should I take this discussion somewhere else?
Hi Robert,
Thanks! Your quick reply and that you picked it up to Dev. is the reason why I got a WorkBee back in 2018 and why I’m sticking with it still to this day. Keep the updates coming :) I’ll happily be a guinea pig for further development, sign me up!
Hi sebastien chedal-bornu,
Guess something like that yes. For setup I suspect that a “standard home” triggered by the main Y sensor first, followed by the second home on the secondary sensor with both motors active. It’s different for the models, for my 1500x1500, each Y axis can move a lot separately without major issue, but expect that the smaller models do not being more rigid, so while you might need separate homing, I expect that it would be beneficial to have both Y motors running for each/every home cycle.
Then comes the potential issues with using the sensors as I know from the original kit (the box standard mechanical ones), they do not have enough tolerance to accommodate bigger movements without having to be super spot one from the get go, so perhaps a proximity sensor, inductive, would be better?
Well just a thought, sorry for adding it all in here - Don’t seem to be a forum for this. If I’m wrong correct me.
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