I would recommend NOT mounting on a folding table- it is difficult to maintain bed flatness. If you insist on making it fold, at the very least you need to make it of torsion box construction that is very rigid.
This drawing shows two bolt heads above the cross piece that disappear in step 5 drawing. I believe they are an artifact of a previous version. Confusing.
In other words, LOUD. It would be a good idea to build a sound-deadening enclosure. Don’t forget the extraction also needs to be running- building it into the enclosure also helps. I have a video of installation at https://youtu.be/JNAL-kgUTuk which may be of interest.
It does not say how. You have to zoom on the picture to find that you have to navigate to 192.168.1.nnn/Settings/Machine.
Adjusting the power supply- on my power supply it is not a Phillips screwdriver that is required but a flat blade.
On attempting to zero my Z axis, I got nasty rattling noises. On investigation, it became clear that the cap head bold securing the bottom 8mm clamping collar was fouling the Zaxis plate. I had to remove >2mm from the side of the bolt to allow clearance.
This slot is not accessible, due to the fitting of the cover plates in the previous section. I have suggested in that section that these tee nuts are added before fitting the cover plates.
You can’t beat having the info in the instructions that you are following- not having to remember/refer to numbers elsewhere…
Also, before putting on the end caps you need to insert the correct number of tee nuts in the top inside face ( 4,6 or 8), to attach the spoiler board supports in the next section. (it becomes the bottom of the three per bracket.)
Following these instructions, the router cable is not part of the drag chain wiring- so it hangs separately. Since different routers may be used, this is understandable. I fit Bulgin Buccaneer 4000 power connectors to all my power tools, removing the trailing power leads. Small and robust, these will fit into the cable entry of DeWalt routers (and other DeWalt tools) making a neat connector. Think Festool without the huge price. The power lead can then be fed through the drag chains. I shall leave a loop between the chains, so that later I can arrange controlled power switching to the router.
I would recommend NOT mounting on a folding table- it is difficult to maintain bed flatness. If you insist on making it fold, at the very least you need to make it of torsion box construction that is very rigid.
This drawing shows two bolt heads above the cross piece that disappear in step 5 drawing. I believe they are an artifact of a previous version. Confusing.
The wifi version is controlled entirely from a web browser, so any OS will do.
In other words, LOUD. It would be a good idea to build a sound-deadening enclosure. Don’t forget the extraction also needs to be running- building it into the enclosure also helps. I have a video of installation at https://youtu.be/JNAL-kgUTuk which may be of interest.
No- the maximum X axis width is 550. You would need a 1500 x 1500 to do this
Step 2: Open the Workbee control.
It does not say how. You have to zoom on the picture to find that you have to navigate to 192.168.1.nnn/Settings/Machine.
Adjusting the power supply- on my power supply it is not a Phillips screwdriver that is required but a flat blade.
On attempting to zero my Z axis, I got nasty rattling noises. On investigation, it became clear that the cap head bold securing the bottom 8mm clamping collar was fouling the Zaxis plate. I had to remove >2mm from the side of the bolt to allow clearance.
In step one, it says “Do not connect other power supplies at this stage.”
However, it does not say when the power should be connected.
Step 4 part 1-
This slot is not accessible, due to the fitting of the cover plates in the previous section. I have suggested in that section that these tee nuts are added before fitting the cover plates.
You can’t beat having the info in the instructions that you are following- not having to remember/refer to numbers elsewhere…
Also, before putting on the end caps you need to insert the correct number of tee nuts in the top inside face ( 4,6 or 8), to attach the spoiler board supports in the next section. (it becomes the bottom of the three per bracket.)
Following these instructions, the router cable is not part of the drag chain wiring- so it hangs separately. Since different routers may be used, this is understandable. I fit Bulgin Buccaneer 4000 power connectors to all my power tools, removing the trailing power leads. Small and robust, these will fit into the cable entry of DeWalt routers (and other DeWalt tools) making a neat connector. Think Festool without the huge price. The power lead can then be fed through the drag chains. I shall leave a loop between the chains, so that later I can arrange controlled power switching to the router.
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