v1.3

Minor Versionm

by Robert

2. Y-Plate Assembly

Written By: Robert (and 2 other contributors)
  • Comments: 30
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  • Completions: 88

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

6

  1. Attach 2 x Nut-Blocks to a Y-Plate-Outer using 4 x M5-Button-Head-Bolt-25mm & 4 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts. Keep these bolts loose so the Nut-Blocks can still move side to side.

    • Attach 2 x Nut-Blocks to a Y-Plate-Outer using 4 x M5-Button-Head-Bolt-25mm & 4 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts.

    • Keep these bolts loose so the Nut-Blocks can still move side to side.

    One of my Nut-Blocks has the lead screw hole oriented to the wrong offset.

    Emil - Reply

    Hi Emil,

    Sorry about that, please get in touch and we can replace it: https://ooznest.co.uk/help/

    Robert -

    My Nut-Blocks where not equally. One had an offset in the hole creating a lot of tension on the lead screw.

    Emil - Reply

  2. Assemble the bottom right Solid-Wheel set first. Insert a M5-Button-Head-Bolt-60mm through the Y-Plate-Inner On to the bolt add an Eccentric-Spacer-6mm. (Rounded portion into the Y-Plate-Inner) Then add a Precision-Shim - ->- - Solid-Wheel - ->- - Aluminium-Spacer-9mm - ->- - Solid-Wheel - ->- - Precision-Shim

    • Assemble the bottom right Solid-Wheel set first. Insert a M5-Button-Head-Bolt-60mm through the Y-Plate-Inner

    • On to the bolt add an Eccentric-Spacer-6mm. (Rounded portion into the Y-Plate-Inner)

    • Then add a Precision-Shim - ->- - Solid-Wheel - ->- - Aluminium-Spacer-9mm - ->- - Solid-Wheel - ->- - Precision-Shim

    • Add an Eccentric-Spacer-6mm then a Y-Plate-Outer. (Rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm goes into the Y-Plate-Outer)

    • On the outside of the Y-Plate-Outer add onto the bolt a Precision Shim then a M5-Nyloc-Nut. Only slightly thread on the M5-Nyloc-Nut.

    • Repeat the above for the other Solid-Wheel set on the bottom row.

    • Repeat for the 2 x Solid-Wheel sets on the top row, but use a Aluminium-Spacer-6mm instead of each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm.

    • The M5-Nyloc-Nuts can now be tightened. Ensure that each Solid-Wheel still rotates freely.

    The top 4 holes on one of my inner Y plates are too small so the M5 bolts will not pass through.

    Emailed support.

    waynechurchill@sky.com - Reply

    Agree with Roy Cruise, so much easier to build with the Y plate on it's back, just ensure the eccentrics are seated before tightening.

    Laurie Wilson - Reply

    Us chaps could do with longer and thinner finger nails to pick up these shims!!

    patkempe@uwclub.net - Reply

    If you guys are having issues pushing the bolt through the wheels you made, just check the bearings are pushed firmly into the plastic wheel housing. I’ve found if they aren’t perfectly aligned, then the bolt will not go through. Its good to check all the assembled wheel units can have the bolt passed through them before assessembling the Y plates

    Paul Orbell - Reply

    When I did the second assembly I put the Y-plate-inner down on the table and the four screws and then did all four screw-wheel-assembly at the same time. Did not really understand why there was a need to do the four screw-wheel-assembly sequentially.

    Emil - Reply

    Hi Emil,

    Thanks for tip. Yes, you can do it that way. I think it was written as above as it is easier to convey in images and words. Robert

    Robert -

    Typo at bullet point one. Should read Assemble. Not a big deal but challenged my tired grey matter.

    thesteveearl@icloud.com - Reply

    Thanks, this has been fixed.

    Robert -

    Hi Rob,

    Thanks for your email.

    It should be 6mm spacer, shim, wheel, 9mm spacer, wheel, shim, 6mm spacer.

    (No shim either side of the 9mm spacer)

    Robert

    Robert - Reply

    Thanks Robert,

    I will remove the extra shims

    Rob Thompson -

    Before I tighten these nuts can I confirm the wheel configuration is, 6mm spacer, shim wheel, shim, 9mm spacer, shim, wheel, shim, 6mm spacer.

    the bit i’m questioning is there a shim either side of the wheel ?

    Rob Thompson - Reply

  3. On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be a face that is marked with ‘6mm’. Using a 8mm spanner, rotate each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing downwards. (Doing this maximises the gap between the top and bottom row of Solid-Wheels) Insert Extrusion-D in-between the two rows of wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so Extrusion-D is sitting on the top row of Solid-Wheels.

    • On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be a face that is marked with ‘6mm’.

    • Using a 8mm spanner, rotate each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing downwards. (Doing this maximises the gap between the top and bottom row of Solid-Wheels)

    • Insert Extrusion-D in-between the two rows of wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so Extrusion-D is sitting on the top row of Solid-Wheels.

    • Rotate both Eccentric-Spacer-6mms on one set of Solid-Wheels until there is a small amount of friction between the Solid-Wheels and Extrusion-D

    • Repeat for the other set of Solid-Wheels.

    • Slide Extrusion-D back and forth. This should require a small amount of force, and all Solid-Wheels should spin.

    • Check there is no wobbling of Extrusion-D. Once happy, double-check the tightness of the M5-Nyloc Nuts and remove Extrusion-D.

    • Try to get all the Solid-Wheels touching Extrusion-D as best as possible. If not, it is not a problem, we will check the Eccentric-Spacers-6mms again once the machine is built.

    I found it much easier to assemble all 4 solid wheel assemblies at once with the inner plate lying flat on its back holding the bolts in place. Otherwise its fiddly and hard to get the shim and 6mm spacer on the last one. Once all 4 are done place the outer plate on top and add the shims and nuts. Just make sure the eccentric nut has located properly before tightening

    Roy Cruse - Reply

    The 8mm spanner mentioned at bullet point 2 is provided (in the ‘extras’ box).

    thesteveearl@icloud.com - Reply

  4. Repeat Steps 1-3 for another Y-Plate Assembly. It should be a mirror image of the previous assembly.

    • Repeat Steps 1-3 for another Y-Plate Assembly. It should be a mirror image of the previous assembly.

    • Ensure the square cut out on the Y-Plate-Outer is at the back.

    Hi Bart,

    Thanks for your message. Extrusion D is used on a later guide, so you are ok to remove it.

    Thanks for your feedback!

    Hi Robert,

    I meant maybe you can add that to the instructions so the next person isn’t left wondering about the same thing! :-)

    Bart

    bart - Reply

    Hi Bart, thanks it has been added about removing Extrusion-D.

    Robert -

    Excellent instructions. You could perhaps clarify two things:

    a) Extrusion-D at this stage is only used to adjust wheel spacing, there is only one of them, and it’s ok to remove it from the first Y-plate to insert into the second. Nothing major but I started looking for a second Extrusion-D when adjusting the wheels on the second plate.

    b) Reword instructions for step 4 with emphasis on the mirror image aspect. It currently says “repeat steps 1 to 3” but taking this literally would result in two identical copies of the plates. Perhaps say that the square cutout should be at the front when assembling the second plate?

    bart - Reply

    Hi Bart,

    Thanks for your message. Extrusion D is used on a later guide, so you are ok to remove it.

    Thanks for your feedback!

    Robert -

    One assembly will say Ooznest, the otherone Workbee :)

    Emil - Reply

  5. A Drag-Chain-Mount needs to be attached to the second Y-Plate-Outer. Make sure you have the correct Y-Plate-Outer. The square cut out on the Y-Plate-Outer is at the back with the wheels on the opposite side.

    • A Drag-Chain-Mount needs to be attached to the second Y-Plate-Outer.

    • Make sure you have the correct Y-Plate-Outer.

    • The square cut out on the Y-Plate-Outer is at the back with the wheels on the opposite side.

    • Insert 2 x M5-Button-Head-Bolt-16mms through the Drag-Chain-Mount, then through the Y-Plate-Outer.

    • Then add a 2 x Precision-Shims and 2 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts on the opposite side of the Y-Plate-Outer.

    • Moving forward this will be known as the Y-Carriage-Left.

    • The other one will be known as the Y-Carriage-Right.

    how tight should the nuts be and in which position should the mount be? does it matter?

    Mark - Reply

    Hi Mark,

    The mount she be on the opposite side of the wheels.

    Thanks.

    Robert -

    Found the Drag-Chain-Mount in the bag labelled 'X&Y-Limit-Switch-Mounts', let's hope the two little bits of plastic in the 'Drag-Chain-Mount' bag turn out to be the limit switch mounts !

    Peter - Reply

    I added a label to each of the assemblies to save time later (considering if it is the left or right piece).

    Emil - Reply

  6. The Y-Carriages can be put to one side until later.
Conclusion

Thanks for following the guide. Any issues, please contact us!

88 other people completed this guide.

Author

with 2 other contributors

Robert

Member since: 12/03/2018

22,144 Reputation

104 Guides authored

3 Comments

Excellent instructions thank you. When read carefully and images studied easy to follow.

PaulB - Reply

Ignore my last comment - I’m not paying attention!! Sorry

Jim Cooper - Reply

On page 3 it incorrectly implies that you use ‘eccentric’ spacer 6mm on the top & bottom wheel sets - it should say ‘aluminium’ spacer 6mm (I think?!)

Jim Cooper - Reply

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