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Minor Versionm

by Dozuki System

  1. First attach the top right wheel, insert a M5-Low-Profile-30mm through the Z-Plate from the back (the back is the side with the insets). On to this, add an Eccentric Spacer-6mm, Precision-Shim, Solid-V-Wheel-Xtreme-Assembly and a M5-Nyloc-Nut in this order. The rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm should be inserted into the hole on the Z-Plate. The assembly can be tightened, ensuring the Solid-V-Xtreme Wheel can still rotate freely.
    • First attach the top right wheel, insert a M5-Low-Profile-30mm through the Z-Plate from the back (the back is the side with the insets). On to this, add an Eccentric Spacer-6mm, Precision-Shim, Solid-V-Wheel-Xtreme-Assembly and a M5-Nyloc-Nut in this order.

    • The rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm should be inserted into the hole on the Z-Plate. The assembly can be tightened, ensuring the Solid-V-Xtreme Wheel can still rotate freely.

    • Repeat the other two wheels on the right row.

    • Repeat for the 3 wheel sets on the left row, however for these sets use Aluminium-Spacer-6mms instead of Eccentric-Spacer-6mms.

    • On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be one face that is marked with ‘6mm’. Using a spanner, adjust each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing to the right. Doing this maximizes the gap between the left and right row of wheels.

    The Shim is there to get the Wheel in the correct position. One isn’t needed between the Nyloc Nut and wheel

    Ryan Lock - Reply

    Why not add a shim on the last step before adding the M5 nylon nut? It seems logic to me because of the friction. And on the Y plate it is like that.

    Gregory Van der Auwera - Reply

  2. Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in-between the two rows of wheels. Initially, there may be a small amount of play between the C-Beam and wheels. Turn the assembly so the C-Beam is sitting on the row of wheels with the Aluminium-Spacer-6mms.
    • Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in-between the two rows of wheels. Initially, there may be a small amount of play between the C-Beam and wheels. Turn the assembly so the C-Beam is sitting on the row of wheels with the Aluminium-Spacer-6mms.

    • Starting with an outside wheel, adjust the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm down onto the C-Beam Extrusion until there is a small amount of friction between the wheel and the C-Beam Extrusion. Repeat this for the other outside wheel, and then for the middle wheel.

    • Repeat this for the other outside wheel, and then for the middle wheel.

    • Slide the C-Beam extrusion back and forth through the wheels. This should require a small amount of force, and all wheels should spin as it rolls. Also, check there is no wobbling of the extrusion. Once happy, double check the tightness of the M5-Nyloc Nuts.

  3. If you have a WorkBee 2.2.1 please follow the Purple Points and look at Image 1. If you have a WorkBee 2.2 please follow the Green Points and look at Image 2. Attach the ACME-AB-Nut-Block to the Z-Plate using 2 x M5-Low-Profile-25mm bolts and 2 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts.
    • If you have a WorkBee 2.2.1 please follow the Purple Points and look at Image 1. If you have a WorkBee 2.2 please follow the Green Points and look at Image 2.

    • Attach the ACME-AB-Nut-Block to the Z-Plate using 2 x M5-Low-Profile-25mm bolts and 2 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts.

    • With the set screw provided with the ACME-AB-Nut-Block, screw it into the smaller threaded hole on the top until it is just before the point of touching the surface on the opposite side of the gap. The set screw will later be used to remove any backlash from the system.

    • Discard the nut left in the bag with the ACME-AB-Nut-Block.

    • --- WorkBee 2.2 ---

    • Attach the ACME-AB-Nut-Block to the Z-Plate using 2 x M5-Low-Profile-25mm bolts and 2 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts. In-between the ACME-AB-Nut-Block and Z-Plate on each bolt there should be an Aluminium-Spacer-3mm and a Precision-Shim.

    • With the set screw provided with the ACME-AB-Nut-Block, screw it into the smaller threaded hole on the top until it is just before the point of touching the surface on the opposite side of the gap. The set screw will later be used to remove any back lash from the system.

    • Discard the nut left in the bag with the ACME-AB-Nut-Block.

  4. If you have a WorkBee 2.2.1 please follow the Purple Points and look at Image 1. If you have a WorkBee 2.2 please follow the Green Points and look at Image 2. Attach 2 x ACME-Nut-Blocks to the X-Plate-Back using 4 x M5-Low-Profile-25mm bolts & 4 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts. Only loosely tighten these bolts so the ACME-Nut-Blocks can still move side to side.
    • If you have a WorkBee 2.2.1 please follow the Purple Points and look at Image 1. If you have a WorkBee 2.2 please follow the Green Points and look at Image 2.

    • Attach 2 x ACME-Nut-Blocks to the X-Plate-Back using 4 x M5-Low-Profile-25mm bolts & 4 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts. Only loosely tighten these bolts so the ACME-Nut-Blocks can still move side to side.

    • Thread the X-ACME-Lead-Screw through both ACME-Nut-Blocks. Tighten the bolts holding one of the ACME-Nut-Blocks, making sure it is square to the X-Plate-Back.

    • To remove any backlash, pinch the loose ACME-Nut-Block towards the previous one, and tighten the bolts holding it. Leave the X-ACME-Lead-Screw threaded through the ACME-Nut-Blocks.

    • --- WorkBee 2.2 ---

    • Attach 2 x ACME-Nut-Blocks to the X-Plate-Back using 4 x M5-Low-Profile-25mm bolts & 4 x M5-Nyloc-Nuts. On each bolt, in-between the ACME-Nut-Block and X-Plate-Back, there should be an Aluminium-Spacer-3mm and a Precision-Shim. Only loosely tighten these bolts so the ACME-Nut-Blocks can still move side to side.

    • Thread the X-ACME-Lead-Screw through both ACME-Nut-Blocks. Tighten the bolts holding one of the ACME-Nut-Blocks, making sure it is square to the X-Plate-Back.

    • To remove any backlash, pinch the loose ACME-Nut-Block towards the previous one, and tighten the bolts holding it. Leave the X-ACME-Lead-Screw threaded through the ACME-Nut-Blocks.

    I really struggled to get the X-ACME-Lead-Screw moving through the ACME-Nut-Blocks. Each time I tightened the blocks - following the instructions carefully - the X -ACME-Lead-Screw locked solid and could barely be rotated in the blocks. I tried swapping the blocks, rotating them. Eventually I turned the X -ACME-Lead-Screw around and inserted the other end through the blocks. This worked fine and it now rotates more freely with the blocks tightened. I have no idea why that should work, but it seemed to, so I am noting it here should others encounter similar problems.

    Paul R. - Reply

    Hi Paul,

    There should not be any friction on the ACME Lead Screw at all with the block in the correct position if you find this is causing you issues with using the machine please get in touch and we can arrange for replacements - please follow - https://ooznest.co.uk/help/#tab_technica...

    Ryan Christy -

    Hi Ken, yup an extra hole as added to make it symmetrical so it doesn’t matter which way it goes round

    Ryan Lock - Reply

    X-Plate back as shipped with order #48644 has different hole dimensions and number to this diagram! As example bottom row has Five (5) holes not 4 (Four) as shown.

    Ken Pickering - Reply

  5. If you have the full kit version of the WorkBee, please complete Step 4 of 4. Limit Switch Assembly & Mounting. First attach the bottom right wheel set - insert a M5-Low-Profile-60mm bolt through the X-Plate-Front through the side with the insets. On to this, add an Eccentric Spacer-6mm, Precision-Shim, Solid-V-Wheel-Xtreme-Assembly, Aluminium Spacer 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-Xtreme-Assembly, Precision Shim, and an Eccentric-Spacer 6mm in this order.
    • If you have the full kit version of the WorkBee, please complete Step 4 of 4. Limit Switch Assembly & Mounting.

    • First attach the bottom right wheel set - insert a M5-Low-Profile-60mm bolt through the X-Plate-Front through the side with the insets. On to this, add an Eccentric Spacer-6mm, Precision-Shim, Solid-V-Wheel-Xtreme-Assembly, Aluminium Spacer 9mm, Solid-V-Wheel-Xtreme-Assembly, Precision Shim, and an Eccentric-Spacer 6mm in this order.

    • Next add the X-Plate-Back-Assembly onto the top of this assemblage, add a Precision-Shim and then slightly thread on a M5-Nyloc-Nut. The rounded portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm should be inserted into the hole on either the X-Plate-Front or X Plate-Back-Assembly (depending on which side it is on).

    • Repeat for the other wheel set on the bottom row corner.

    • Repeat for the 2 wheel sets on the top row, however for these sets use Aluminium-Spacer-6mms instead of Eccentric-Spacer-6mms.

    • Once all of the wheels are attached the M5-Nyloc-Nuts can be tightened down. Ensure that the Solid-V-Xtreme-Wheels can still rotate freely. On the hexagonal portion of the Eccentric-Spacer-6mm, there will be one face that is marked with ‘6mm’.

    • In the same method as the Y-Plates, using a spanner, adjust each Eccentric-Spacer-6mm so that this face is facing downwards. Doing this maximizes the gap between the top and bottom row of wheels.

    As suggested in red above…. I’d highly recommend fitting the limit switch now before going further….. I didn’t for some strange reason and I regretted it.

    Zac Wingfield - Reply

    If you go straight to this you miss the wiring colour guide. (Red)(2) refers to the small coding collar located at the plug end of the switch assembly.

    Mike - Reply

    The link to 4. Limit Switch Assembly & Mounting appears to be linking to the v2.0 version of the guide. I don’t know if this is a problem, as I think the instructions are the same, but just in case, here’s the correct link: 4. Limit Switch Assembly & Mounting

    Daniel Hollands - Reply

    Older Ooznest version manual do not explain e.g. wire color codes. Correct link to exactly “Z Limit Switch Mounting“: 4. Limit Switch Assembly & Mounting

    Jani Heiskari -

  6. Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in-between the two rows of wheels. Initially, there may be a small amount of play between the C-Beam and wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so the C-Beam  WorkBee CNC Assembly 18 is sitting on the row of wheels with the Aluminium-Spacer-6mms.
    • Run any piece of C-Beam extrusion in-between the two rows of wheels. Initially, there may be a small amount of play between the C-Beam and wheels. Turn the assembly upside down so the C-Beam WorkBee CNC Assembly 18 is sitting on the row of wheels with the Aluminium-Spacer-6mms.

    • Starting with one pair of wheels, adjust both Eccentric-Spacer-6mms down onto the C-Beam Extrusion until there is a small amount of friction between both wheels and the C-Beam Extrusion.

    • When adjusting the pair of Eccentric-Spacer-6mms ideally they should be adjusted identically. However, sometimes one will need to be adjusted slightly more than the other to get both wheels engaged with the C-Beam extrusion.

    • Repeat this for the other pair of wheels.

    • Slide the C-Beam extrusion back and forth through the wheels. This should require a small amount of force, and all wheels should spin as it rolls. Also check there is no wobbling of the extrusion. Once happy, double check the tightness of the M5-Nyloc Nuts.

  7. Mate the Z-Plate-Assembly to the X-Carriage-Assembly in the orientation seen above. In each of the 4 holes use a M5-Cap-Head-Bolt-12mm, Precision-Shim and a M5-Locking-Washer to secure the two assemblies together. The M5-Locking-Washer should be against the Z-Plate. With the Precision-Shim in-between the M5-Locking-Washer and M5-Cap-Head-Bolt-12mm
    • Mate the Z-Plate-Assembly to the X-Carriage-Assembly in the orientation seen above. In each of the 4 holes use a M5-Cap-Head-Bolt-12mm, Precision-Shim and a M5-Locking-Washer to secure the two assemblies together.

    • The M5-Locking-Washer should be against the Z-Plate. With the Precision-Shim in-between the M5-Locking-Washer and M5-Cap-Head-Bolt-12mm

    • Make sure the Z-Plate-Assembly is square to the X-Carriage-Assembly.

    • Do not over-tighten the M5-Locking-Washer. If over-tightened it will lose it's effectiveness.

    where does limit switch cable feed out ??????

    Dermot Thorpe - Reply

    Hi Dermot, It feeds out the hole opposite the switch. Like this: https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Ryan Lock -

    There is a nut in the bag but no mention of it here?

    Andy - Reply

    I assume an “M5-Precision-Shim” and a “Precision-Shim” are the same thing?

    Daniel Hollands - Reply

    I have made this change and fixed it.

    Ryan Lock -

    There is no bag labeled M5-Precision-Shim, it should be renamed to Precision-Shim, just in all other chapters.

    Jani Heiskari -

  8. Slide the C-Beam-250mm through the Z-Wheels on the X-Carriage-Assembly. Attach both of the Z-End-Mounts using 8 x M5-Low-Profile-15mm bolts.
    • Slide the C-Beam-250mm through the Z-Wheels on the X-Carriage-Assembly.

    • Attach both of the Z-End-Mounts using 8 x M5-Low-Profile-15mm bolts.

    • Tighten the top Z-End-Mount bolts fully.

    • For the bottom Z-End-Mount, tighten the bolts fully, and then loosen by a single full turn (the reason for this will become clear later).

  9. If you have an Ooznest XYZ Touch Probe, please complete Steps 1-3 of Assembling Your Original WorkBee XYZ Touch Probe Slide the 1/4” side (the side with the smallest hole) of the Flexible-Coupler onto the shaft of the NEMA23-Stepper-Motor. Don’t tighten it down at this point.
    • If you have an Ooznest XYZ Touch Probe, please complete Steps 1-3 of Assembling Your Original WorkBee XYZ Touch Probe

    • Slide the 1/4” side (the side with the smallest hole) of the Flexible-Coupler onto the shaft of the NEMA23-Stepper-Motor. Don’t tighten it down at this point.

    • Attach the NEMA23-Stepper-Motor to the threaded holes on the Z-End-Mount using 4 x M5-Low-Profile-50mm bolts and 4 x Aluminium-Spacer-40mm’s.

    • Orient the NEMA23-Stepper-Motor so that the wire is towards the back of the X-Carriage-Assembly.

    You can add the touch probe connector at this point. Open ANOTHER window with the touch probe instructions…!

    Mike - Reply

  10. Please make sure you use the 8mm-Lock-Collar not 8mm-Clamping-Collar. Slide the Z-ACME-Screw through the bottom Z-End-Mount. Then slide on a F688ZZ-Bearing (facing downwards), 8mm-Shim, and a 8mm-Lock-Collar in this order. Thread the Z-ACME-Screw through the ACME-AB-Nut-Block, it may be hard to thread the Z-ACME-Screw through the ACME-AB-Nut-Block for the first time. Once through, slide on a 8mm-Lock-Collar, 8mm-Shim, and a F688ZZ-Bearing (facing upwards) in this order.
    • Please make sure you use the 8mm-Lock-Collar not 8mm-Clamping-Collar.

    • Slide the Z-ACME-Screw through the bottom Z-End-Mount. Then slide on a F688ZZ-Bearing (facing downwards), 8mm-Shim, and a 8mm-Lock-Collar in this order.

    • Thread the Z-ACME-Screw through the ACME-AB-Nut-Block, it may be hard to thread the Z-ACME-Screw through the ACME-AB-Nut-Block for the first time. Once through, slide on a 8mm-Lock-Collar, 8mm-Shim, and a F688ZZ-Bearing (facing upwards) in this order.

    • Fully thread through the Z-ACME-Screw until it is touching the NEMA 23-Stepper Motor shaft. Position the Flexible-Coupler so it is half on the Z-ACME-Screw and half on the NEMA23-Stepper-Motor shaft. Once in position, tighten the screws on the Flexible-Coupler.

    • Make sure one is on the flat portion of the motor shaft

    • Slide the second F688ZZ-Bearing up the Z-ACME-Screw until it seats in the hole on the top Z-End-Mount, then slide up the 8mm-shim onto the bearing, and finally slide up 8mm-Lock-Collar so it is firmly against the 8mm-Shim and lock it in place using the grub screw on the side.

    • Repeat for the bottom Z-End-Mount.

    • Locate the four M5-Low-Profile-15mm bolts that were left a full turn from tight in Step 8. These can now be fully tightened. Doing this will remove any play that may be present.

  11. Firmly hold the X-Carriage-Assembly, and check for any up and down play in the C-Beam-250mm. If there is any, this is due to backlash in the ACME-AB-Nut-Block. The  set screw which was inserted in Step 3 into the ACME-AB-Nut-Block can be screwed downwards to remove this.
    • Firmly hold the X-Carriage-Assembly, and check for any up and down play in the C-Beam-250mm. If there is any, this is due to backlash in the ACME-AB-Nut-Block. The set screw which was inserted in Step 3 into the ACME-AB-Nut-Block can be screwed downwards to remove this.

    • Do not over tighten this, as it can make the Z ACME-Screw difficult to turn. You can test this by rotating the Flexible-Coupler by hand.

    • It should require a small to medium amount of force. This will need to be rechecked once the router is attached, and periodically checked when in use.

Conclusion

Thanks for following the guide. Any issues, please contact us!

28 other people completed this guide.

Robert

Member since: 12/03/2018

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104 Guides authored

2 Comments

When tightening the flex coupling, which screws does one tighten first? The ones that fix the shaft/acme thread or the ones on the side of the coupler?

Joost van Putte - Reply

Hi Joost,

Tighten the clamping screws on the motor shaft first, then on the lead screw. Then tighten the grub screws on both sides.

Best Regards

Ryan Lock

Ryan Lock -

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