Tom Hawkins

Hi Ryan,

Is there a way to change the units from millimeters to inches in WorkBee Control? Created jobs in VCarve Pro in inches. If I enter inch dimensions and select “mm” it does not convert it. If I do the job in inches and upload that to the WorkBee, I don’t think the Workbee will convert it, right? What would be easiest, for me at least, would be to setup the WorkBee Control in inches.

Tried to source a 5’ x 10’ MDF sheet. From what I can find, there is only one supplier near where I live. It would take 10 hours to drive and get it, or a considerable amount for shipping. Either way, there were out of stock and didn’t know when they would restock. On a 1500 x 1500 machine, setting the outside Extrusion C’s to the 80mm dimension specified produces an outside dimension of 52-1/2” (1333.3mm), which would be good for a 5’ wide sheet of MDF cut down to that size. 48” (1219.2mm) MDF is readily available in all areas of the US. Setting the rails to 137mm will give you support on the outer edges of a 48” wide MDF sheet. So, perhaps a chart showing the different size machines and the different size waste board options for each machine would help.

Thanks for the offer, Robert. However, I already have it fixed. I got a longer bolt from a local hardware store. I would like to add that I retaped the hole (M8x1.25) and got the original bolt to connect with the threads. However, I was only able to get approximately 1 to 1-1/2 turns on the bolt. When I tried to apply any pressure, the single thread stripped out. Perhaps the counterbore was too shallow. I didn’t have a counterbore bit to machine it deeper.

In addition to the above comment, by drilling the new 1” diameter hole it gained me approximately 60mm of extra wire length inside the box.

Had “D” shaped holes. Ran 7/32” drill bit through the holes to open them up.

When I routed my wires this way, I ended up not having enough wire length to reach the respective terminals. I took a 1” diameter Forstner bit and drilled a hole into the right side of the box just below the two wire tie holes. The wires then reached all the terminals.

I got the DeWalt router mount. The M8 x 25mm Cap Screw is too short to engage the threads. Had to go and purchase a M8 x 30mm SHCS.

I found it more convenient to install my router mount (section 7) at this point. I was able to move the X-Gantry toward the front of the machine and install this without having to stretch over the table, or have power on the machine to move the gantry closer.

An assembly tip: The instructions above saying to “Slightly thread a M5-Drop-In-Tee-Nut on to the end of each bolt.” needs to be followed! Only mate up the screws and drop-in-tee-nuts by 1 to 1-1/4 turns before installing your router mount. If you mate them up tighter to begin with, you will run the risk of not engaging the slots in the extrusion. This would probably result in your mounted router coming off the extrusion while working on a project because the drop in tee-nuts didn’t clamp down tight enough to secure the mount.

As far as leveling goes, I think a good way to do this is to elevate the whole frame up above the tabletop. I find it nearly impossible to find a flat “wood” surface and I don’t have a granite surface plate like I used in the machine shops. You can purchase brackets and leveling feet for use with these extrusions. Once you have everything leveled in and the way you want it, you can use anchoring plates (angle plates) to secure the machine to the tabletop.