2. Testing Your WorkBee

where do i get workbee control

Hello,

the Z-Axis Limit Switch have the status “triggerd” while it is obviosly not triggered.

Hi, midway through this test I got an an heat warning and noticed the fans were not working. I hot the wmergency stop and about to open the control box to check connection when a single fan automatically turned on. But only one, not both. Thoughts?

To be honest this is pretty much the only part of the build I struggled with. Done it 3 or 4 times and still not sure I have got it right. Probably obvious to all engineers out there, but I am not an engineer. What exactly are we trying to achieve and what are the implications of not getting this right?

Hi, if anybody struggling to get the flanged bearings moved, I used a small neodymium magnet and they got out very easy

It seems the motors only lock after homing. The machine makes an unpleasant noise doing this homing since the nut blocks and clamping collars are loose. Is there a way to lock the motors without rehoming (and then having to jog back into the middle as per instructions)

Two things.

1) When jogging the x and y axis’ into the middle position, try ensuring that the screw on the clamping collars are both visible and accessible.

2) I could not get any of the flanged radial bearings out from where they were socketed using a thin edge and trying to wiggle them out. I then decided to use some relatively strong magnets I have. Using those and some very gentle manipulation of the screw they popped out.

Hello Team Ooznest. Do we have to loose Clamping-Collars that are on the inside channel on BOTH sides of the axis (front and back) ? Or just the “front” ones as on photo 2 ? Thanks.

Method for loosening the clamping-collars? most of the clamping-collar bolts are not accessable.

The flanged bearings are extremely difficult to remove - can these be left in if the rubber washer and locking collar are pulled aside?

at this point access to the stepper motor end of the x axis is impossible, due to the duet board being mounted there

Hi Team, I am quite confident that I did the tensioning correctly as described here, however when I home the machine and test how tighten the lead screws are I am not totally confident as they can be moved up and down quite easily. From the video linked in the previous comments is difficult to tell. Can you please provide a feedback or a video showing what is the right tension? Thanks!

I'm having the same problem where the X stepper won't click. If I keep turning the tensioning knob it will eventually pull the lead screw out of the Flexible-Coupler. I tried powering off and on again and the stepper turns freely; sending command M17 locks it but it still won’t click over.

I’m really struggling here. What does click-over mean? Does it mean the stepper shaft rotates? How can it if it’s locked? I’ve managed to pull the lead screw out of the tensioner more than once now. No idea how tight those screws should be. I don’t want to over tighten and wreck the hexes. Will see if there’s a video out there on this.

Can I just suggest that you edit the instructions so they read “Keep turning, just before the point that the Stepper-Motor clicks over AGAIN is the correct amount of tension for the Lead-Screw.” Not knowing exactly what noise the stepper motor should make when it clicks over, I thought I had just knocked something and carried on a couple more times. Hoping I got away with it.

ok i must be incrediably stupid…. followed the instructions to remove the clamping collars but had to switch off the machine to move the collars to a position i could loosen the grub screws.. switch machine back on and its showing theaxis not homed… so i turn the tensioner as instructed and have destroyed the X axis limit switch… can i just point out that the instructions do tell you to move the x axis into the center of the machine as well as the Y….. now have a useless lump of aluminium sat on my work bench..

Just following the instructions:

Keep turning until the Stepper-Motor clicks over.

Keep turning, just before the point that the Stepper-Motor clicks over is the correct amount of tension for the Lead-Screw.

So I have understood this correctly, turn until the stepper motor clicks over once, and then continue turning and stop just before it clicks over a second time?

Hi Ryan, when I 1st did this step, I turned off the controller for safety. After I had completed the tensioning I realised that the controller needed to be on to lock the stepper motors. Maybe you could mention that in the instructions.

The lead screws are sticking into the end caps slightly, causing a slight bulge. Is this a problem? The machine itself seems to jog fine despite this.

I could see a case for simply removing the screw caps, or for adding spacers to them to provide some distance.

Should be 12 bolts, not 16? 3 end caps x 4 bolts

Except for the Z axis, I’ve found that some of the wheels have no friction on the extrusion at all. Adjusting the eccentric spacer to give them some friction results in the opposite wheel (on the up or down side) being pretty much rock-solid (or at least barely movable by hand). Is that supposed to be like that?

Have I built my workbee incorrectly? The Eccentric-Spacers on my Y carriages are at the bottom. After fixing my CNC to the bench, they are almost impossible to access.

Eccentric-Spacer-6mms should be adjusted until there is a small amount of friction between the Solid-Wheel & Extrusion.

I am not sure what a small amount of play should be. How can this be measured when the lead screws are stationary and the wheels cannot be turned? Does this mean that the wheels should be loosened to the point that they can slightly rotate when turned with the hand while the lead screw are still stationary?