5. Controller

Same problem as above: filed the holes out a bit using a round file. Some of the counterbores were oval too and the bolt heads didn’t fit so had to scrape them out a bit. Might be an idea to slightly increase their diameter in the 3D model to compensate for this.

yep me too .

Had “D” shaped holes. Ran 7/32” drill bit through the holes to open them up.

Don’t push the sticker in the tracks when ‘removing’ it from extrusion B.

After rolling forward a couple more steps it didn’t look like I would ever be able to get the emergency stop connectors into the power inputs, so I ended up taking out three of the screws (leaving just the top right) which gave plenty of movement to be able to get them in neatly.

I agree I’m an electrician and i think the wiring methods need reviewing

The length of slack on the 1500 x 1500 machine is far too little. X axis limit switch, motor cable 5 and e stop cable needs to be longer.

It would be useful to know roughly what length of each of the wires needs to extend into the controller box. Trying to pull out more wire through the tightened cable sleeve and the drag chain is a nightmare.

There’s ample sleeving. Recommend trimming the frayed ends and using a lighter to sear the ends as this will reduce any fraying while you’re fiddling.

In addition to the above comment, by drilling the new 1” diameter hole it gained me approximately 60mm of extra wire length inside the box.

When I routed my wires this way, I ended up not having enough wire length to reach the respective terminals. I took a 1” diameter Forstner bit and drilled a hole into the right side of the box just below the two wire tie holes. The wires then reached all the terminals.

David Van Der Wee, I am glad you made the above comment. It made me look at the configuration and guess what ….. I had put the wires in the wrong way round. So thank you!!

For old boys like me who print the instructions on a mono laser, you dont get the polarity information of the power supply. Pop go the fuses, luckily no other damage though. Might be a good idea to put Positive and Negative in the text.

Motor cable 5 is too short on the 1500 x 1500 needs to be about 75mm longer

Limit switch 0 is too short for me. Had to route it through the air vents in the bottom of control unit.

We don’t have an orange colour to markup the images with in our manual software, so brown = orange.

Out limit switch-1 cable had a brown tag rather than orange.

some of the wires on the 1500 x 1500 version could do with another 50mm in length

Motor wire 5 i very short. Give us 50 mm extra please :(

Hi Mark and Gary, thanks for your feedback. I will see if the guide can be rejigged to make the antenna attached before putting the controller in the case. Robert

Had the same problem and thought the plug/socket was damaged. The spring in the wire didn’t help. Also the picture does not represent the pcb which was shipped as the socket / chip is in a different orientation.

My solution in the end was disconnect everything and pull the card so I could fit it on the bench, then reassemble. This was the low point of the build but minutes later it was moving under its own power so all forgiven ;-)

I had exactly the same problem, so ended up taking the board out, can I suggest it would be easier to assemble the wifi connection before bolting the board in as I reckon its near impossible with the board in unless you have very small hands and fingers.

There does not seem to be any damage to the parts the connections are that small and shallow I am finding it difficult to align and it just pops off

Hi Anthony,

Thanks for your comment.

It should be fairly easy and just push on. Does any of the parts look damaged, which could be making it difficult?

I have been trying to connect the antenna wire onto the control board for the past 2 days without success. Is there a easy way of completing this action

I had the same issue with the hinges. I also realized at the end that the hole in the bottom vents of the controller box was due to a broken box and not intentional. Not a big deal, but some of the layers in the printed controller box are a bit thin and susceptible to breakage.

likewise my hinges were too tight so i had to drill out the hole a little

I couldn’t get enough slack on the drag chain x and limit switch 0 wires to secure them down to extrusion B. I settled for cable tieing the cables to the last drag chain link crossbar, that should stop them rubbing on anything.

overall not very impressed with the control box and the wire routing and the size and location of the box.

Also the dust protection seems inadequate

Cables to Short, fan leads to short wiring over fans could all do with being reviewed

The fan leads could stand to be longer, at least long enough to open the door all the way. I had to support the outer enclosure cover on the extrusion below to plug in the fans.

And yes, the the wire bundle is annoyingly in the way. How about incorporating a tie bar to the enclosure. Maybe a rod that gets installed in front of the duet board from top to bottom after the board is wired.

To keep the bundle of wires away from the fans, I used a several of the little zip ties to secure the wires. They essentially went in front if the wires, up through the SD slot opening, around the back, up through one of the cooling slots, and back to the beginning. Not super tight but just enough to hold things in their space.

holes sizes on the case cover fixings could do with being a tad larger.

The controller case is intended to be installed by a double-jointed contortionist with tiny steel like fingers who can route large numbers of cables through small holes neatly and tidily. I’m not sure why devices like this with controller cases always try to use the smallest case size which limits the size of the cable holes. I had similar problems building a Prusa 3D printer. If the case were a bit bigger with a bigger cable hole the job would have been a lot easier and would have looked much neater.